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Erno Valtri: On Wine A bubbling investigation

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Where do those bubbles come from and are they always the same? Addressing the second part of the question first; no. More on that shortly.

Those delightful bubbles we enjoy in Champagne and other sparkling wines originate during fermentation. Fermentation methods vary from place-to-place and style-to-style, though a critical thing they all have in common is carbon dioxide (CO2), the gas in the bubble. That CO2 forms when living yeast in the bottle eats the natural sugar the grapes provide, yielding two waste products, including the CO2. (The other waste product is alcohol. Waste to the yeast, not to us.)

Méthode champenoise or méthode traditionnelle are the same, though only producers from France’s Champagne region use the former term while the rest of the world uses the latter. (At least they’re supposed to.) After fermentation in a wooden barrel, this method includes a second fermentation in the bottle, producing a lot of trapped CO2. A single 750ml bottle of Champagne contains roughly 5 liters of carbon dioxide! Thus, the pressure in the bottle we’re familiar with.

The gas remains in suspension, captured within the bottle we eventually purchase. The bubbles zing into existence when the cork is removed, lowering the pressure and allowing the CO2 molecules to suddenly coalesce, creating bubbles. Very cool physics.

Much can be learned from those bubbles. Both smaller and longer lasting bubbles indicate higher quality wine. Prosecco, Cava, Lambrusco, and other sparklers have larger, less appealing bubbles. Less appealing? Tiny bubbles are easier to discern when you drink them, primarily because there are many more of them than big bubbles.

Finer bubbles create a more delicate “mousse,” the foam at the top of your glass. They also pop more sharply in your mouth. They even sound different. The Acoustical Society of America’s 2017 study heard “tiny bells ringing” when putting a hydrophone in a glass of Moet Chandon Champagne. The smaller the bubble, the higher the pitch. The study compared Moet Chandon (about $55) with Cook’s sparkling wine ($6.99) and showed the Moet had 5% smaller bubbles, less size variation, and more overall activity.

Visiting Domaine Chandon (Moet’s California subsidiary), I learned they etch the very bottom of their wine glasses. Etching (or any foreign debris in the glass, like dust) helps the CO2 create more bubbles. (Don’t put dust in your glass.)

To enhance your bubbling experience, pouring slowly will retain more bubbles than splashing it in. Big bubbles do have one advantage though; they give off more aroma when they pop.

Ernest Valtri of Buckingham is a sculptor, painter, graphic designer, and a former member of the PLCB’s Wine Advisory Council. Please contact Erno at ObjectDesign@verizon.net.


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