I go with quality and excitement as the primary judging parameters for my personal Wine of The Year (WOTY). Price and availability are also factors, and are certainly important on a practical, daily basis. However, as practicality and excitement often diverge, I’m going with excitement.
For 2022 it’s the 2011 vintage Kosta Browne, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir my wife and I enjoyed on Aug. 20 with a barbecued salmon. The wine cost $58 in 2012. This wonderful, memorable wine narrowly beat my three other WOTY candidates for this year: a Roederer Estate 2018 brut “L’Hermitage” sparkler from Mendocino, Calif., a 2012 Molly Dooker “Carnival of Love” Shiraz from McLaren Vale, Australia, and a 2012 Colgin IX Estate Syrah from Napa.
On the nose, the Kosta Browne Pinot offered rose scents and a slight hint of eucalyptus. On the palate it presented a considerable amount of black cherry, typical of a quality California Pinot, along with wonderfully generous measures of cola, blueberry and pomegranate. Delicious hints of milk chocolate, a touch of earth and a shade of oak rounded out the flavor profile.
Regardless of the copious amount of black cherry, the wine was absolutely perfectly balanced, fresh, very nuanced, lush and complex. Truly outstanding.
Speaking of copious, I keep such notes throughout the year on any wine we drink that really impresses. That’s how I know when we drank it, what it costs, where I bought it, what we ate with it, and most importantly, what we thought of it. I encourage those readers interested enough to do the same. Not only will this habit expand your tasting skill and experience, it also brings back pleasant memories throughout the year (By the way, if a wine is particularly disappointing, it makes my notes as well).
Of concern for California Pinot lovers is the fact that Dan Kosta is no longer involved with Kosta Browne. The brand was purchased by two different investment firms over the years, and since 2018 has been owned by Duckhorn Vineyards in Napa, with Julien Howsepian the winemaker.
Kosta has recently created a new winery called Convene, and is working with Shane Finely, his old winemaker from Kosta Browne. That proven combination will surely continue to create wonderful Pinot (and Chardonnay). Let’s look for Convene!
Ernest Valtri of Buckingham is a sculptor, painter, graphic designer, and a former member of the PLCB’s Wine Advisory Council. Please contact Erno at ObjectDesign@verizon.net.
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