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Art & Antiques: Value trends in 1980s Jewelry

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Today’s jewelry trends cater to designs that are dainty, diminutive, demure. That was not the case in the 1980s. Such dainty and feminine jewelry was out in the 1980s. Brash, big, bold, powerful statement jewelry was popular back in the decade when Michael J. Fox went “Back to the Future.”

Jewelry of the 1980s had an evident structure and weight. Large pieces like big gold cuff bracelets and bold Cuban link necklaces were in vogue as 1980s supermodels like Cindy Crawford, Kathy Ireland, Iman, Renee Simonsen, and Elle Macpherson struck a pose.

The 1980s saw great change particularly in the realm of jewelry. As we approached the end of the 20th century, major cultural changes took place. The prevailing art movement produced paintings and sculptural pieces that promoted culture shock value above all else.

Changes in the realm of all things shiny and bright, that is jewelry, were sparked by artists, designers, and even celebrities. Power players in the market were not men buying jewelry gifts for others, but in fact, working women became the main customer for jewelry designers of the 1980s.

For instance, Madonna, the singer/songwriter/entertainer, made rosary beads a fashion statement in the 1980s. Once viewed as old fashioned, the religious beads associated with Christian prayer were worn as an accessory amid big hair styles and Gloria Vanderbilt jeans. In addition, celebs and fashionistas of the 1980s wore oversized hoop earrings, mammoth chain link necklaces, neon and jelly bracelets.

Other jewelry trends of the 1980s included single strand pearl necklaces worn over Fair Isle sweaters, bold gold jewelry pieces with silk blouses, diamond tennis bracelets for the Preppy set, and for the beach combers…sporty Swatch wristwatches and the ever popular cowrie and pooka shell necklaces.

Another fashion trend setter, Great Britain’s own Princess Diana wore large faceted-cut, prong set choker necklaces and cocktail rings of high quality gemstones. Her famous engagement ring featured at her 1981 wedding was an impressive blue sapphire surrounded by diamonds, which is now worn by HRH Princess Catherine.

Like Diana, Duchess of York Sarah Ferguson had an equally showy ruby engagement ring featuring diamonds. The ruby red recalled the Duchess’ raven red hair. Following the royals’ lead, many 1980s jewelry enthusiasts around the world wore both real and costume jewelry in the big, bold style featuring prong set gemstones of alluring colors ranging from emeralds to colorful diamonds.

Prior to the 1980s, fine jewelry was not marketed specifically by brand. So, the industry changed in the 1980s. In the 1980s, a major jewelry trend was sparked by women in the workplace. Working women, while enjoying gifts of jewelry, began purchasing jewelry for themselves instead of waiting to receive bling from a loved one on a special occasion.

There was a movement where women purchased pieces of jewelry for themselves without the constrains of accepting a gift. This opened the jewelry world to designers who were catering to women directly. It also sparked the rise of women as fine jewelry designers too.

Ph.D. antiques appraiser, author, and award-winning media personality, Dr. Lori presents antique appraisal events nationwide, appears on History channel’s The Curse of Oak Island and Pawn Stars do America. Dr. Lori gives appraisal value information at DrLoriV.com, Youtube.com/DrLoriV and 888-431-1010.


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