Mother Nature has played an exceedingly difficult trick on France’s wine industry this spring. In mid-March, temperatures rose well above average there, peaking at 79°F, which forced most vineyards around the nation to bloom much earlier than normal.
Just a few weeks later in mid-April, freezing temperatures, as low as 19°F, hit nearly every region of France. This wild climatic swing has devastated the grape crop nationwide, affecting roughly 80% of French vineyards. The result looks like what could possibly be the smallest grape harvest in France’s history.
Alsace, on the German border, and Cognac, just north of Bordeaux on the Atlantic Ocean, seem to be the only significant wine regions left unaffected. Champagne has suffered, though a bit less than most other wine regions. Many wineries are anticipating an 80% to 90% lost harvest for 2021. The Rhone Valley looks to be the region worst hit.
Julien Denormandie, France’s agriculture minister, said, “it was an episode of extreme violence which has caused extremely significant damage.” Emmanuel Macron, France’s president, has promised his government will quickly step in with some kind of emergency rescue package.
This disaster is on top of coronavirus pandemic-induced decreases in restaurant wine purchases, decreased tourism, a depressed export market in Britain due to Brexit, and former President Trump’s 25% retaliatory import tariff.
Farmers had only a few defensive options during the freeze, like lighting controlled small fires or lighting paraffin lamps in their vineyards. These efforts created further problems in the form of heavy smog that’s blocking sunlight and, particularly in Bordeaux, causing measurably worsening air quality. A few farmers rented helicopters to hover over their crops, pushing warmer air towards the ground. The anxiety is overwhelming for those whose lives depend on farming.
Wine is obviously a very significant part of French culture and national pride. The government has declared the entire thing ”an agricultural disaster.” Let’s hope a full recovery is forthcoming with next year’s growing season.
Ernest Valtri of Buckingham is a sculptor, graphic designer, and a former member of the PLCB’s Wine Advisory Council. Contact Erno at ObjectDesign@verizon.net.
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